The First Hill

Setting out on a cycle tour is a special moment.  Leaving a warm, secure house with the regular ways of living on a simple bicycle, for the unknown.  What have I forgotten?  The extra weight is noticeable at every stop-start, and every small rise.  Did I bring too much?

This year I'm definitely  carrying more weight, as I have some cooking stuff.  Meths for the stove is heavy.  And a bulky, but light, sleeping mat which might help keep me warm.  Was it a good idea?  We'll see. 

The forecast thundery showers didn't  materialise as I cycled to Ealing for the first of three trains, the Elizabeth line to Reading. In some ways, the train journey feels the most risky part of the trip, because you're not in control, and you have limited alternative options - train delays, missed connections, or rail replacement buses can all derail your journey, especially  when you have to book your bike onto a specific train.

After allowing plenty of contingency in my schedule  for delays and refreshments, I spent more time waiting for trains than on them in my journey to Wales.  I arrived at Newport just after 10am and got the train for Fishguard.  The journey was a reverse preview of where I'll be riding, but without the hills and hard work.  Lovely.  Everything  ran on time and I arrived at Fishguard & Goodwick just before 2pm, in sweltering sunshine.

My start point is just outside Fishguard, near the ferry terminal and next to the first hill, which I climbed twice.  Once to a viewpoint looking over Fishguard Harbour, and then again to set off towards St David's to the south.   The road is generally at a highish level, 150 metres or so but my route frequently visited seaside places which are at a lowish level, 0 metres or thereabouts. So, plenty of hills. 

The roads were empty but strewn with wild flowers - cow parsley, celandine, campion and bluebells made for a colourful and nose-tinglung ride.  A stiff breeze was mostly defeated by the high and verdant hedges.   Highlights were Strumble Head (lighthouse)  Abercastle, very quiet cove, Porthgain (an old slate and brick making port, with several eateries. 

I wasn't  sure where to stay, aiming for somewhere near St David's, but most of the many options for hostels or camping were unavailable.  Ended up at Whitesand Bay campsite, but too late to check in and buy a token for the shower, not great.  On the plus side, St David's was only two miles away and I found a lovely pub with great  food.  After a lovely, hot day, rain is forecast tonight, so I need to get back to the campsite.