Thursday, 19 May 2022

To Gower?

Today my target is the Gower peninsula. First I had to ride down the magnificent estuary  form Carmarthen,  well, from my campsite  at Ferryport.  It was fairly flat with occasional views of the river until near Kidwelly, which is at the top of a salt marsh now turned nature reserve.  For the first time, the wind has dropped and it was serenely beautiful overlooking the water.
Kidwelly
Kidwelly

I followed  a stretch of the Millenium Cycleway along the coast to Burry Port, an old coal port,  where I stopped for breakfast. 
Millenium Cycleway 
Burry Port 

My legs are tired today and complaining about every tiny incline. I don't  seem to be able to eat enough, or eat the right things, to get enough energy.  It's a beautiful day but I'm getting fed up with camping every night, although it's going well.  A bed for the night would be nice, but it seems that YHAs haven't yet opened shared dorms round here, and the private rooms are all fully booked.  Things took a further turn for the worse when the café toilet had run out of paper!  Luckily I was well prepared and was able to improvise.

The Millenium Cycleway continues on beautiful smooth, wide, flat, summy tarmac to Llanelli bay,  a wide sweep of sand which I'd admired from the train a few days ago.  It was lovely, but I was dreading the Gower peninsula.  Hills - maybe not huge, but quite a few with chevrons.  Another campsite (or a boutique bunkhouse(!) for £220 a night).  My legs were empty, and my panniers were full.  Too full.  In hindsight, I could list half a dozen things I haven't needed.  Especially cooking stuff and food, which is heavy.

As I approached Gowerton, the sign said "Welcome to Swansea".  I started thinking that I could do with a day off.  A rest day.  Maybe catch the train to Swansea, or Cardiff,  and stay over there?  Then another thought: why not catch the train home?  And within half an hour  I'd decided.  The Gower peninsula is supposed to be a treat, so I'll come back and enjoy it another time, maybe later this year.  Maybe with a few pre-booked hostel or B&B stays.

I arrived in Gowerton just before 1pm.  Booked a bike space on GWR, bought a ticket (in that order), bought an unhealthy lunch; three trains, and I was home before six pm.
I'm sorry that I haven't  done more this time,  but for me it's not about the miles clocked up, it's about the journey: doing new things and visiting interesting places.  I've loved the variety, the scenery, the camping and even most of the weather, and I'll be back ...

6 comments:

  1. Glad you enjoyed most of it. Welsh weather can be very wet and the hills too steep, but the views and wildlife are wonderful. Maybe it's better on foot?
    The Gower is a treat, don't miss Rhossili and The Worm's Head - you'll have to leave your bike behind for the latter.

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  2. Ahh Simon! I have really enjoyed reading your blog (all of it just now) you write so well. I think once the thought of ‘home’ enters your mind when things are a bit uncomfortable, it’s difficult not to go with it. I would have returned home much sooner! But as you say it’s about enjoying it, not just getting through it. You did the right thing. It sounds like you’ve had a great little trip. Look forward to seeing you when you next ride with the EFRERS.

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  3. Such beautiful scenery, Loved reading the blog, A tough bit of the coastline behind you. Enjoy your comfy bed and home food

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  4. A shame that you didn't do Gower. It really is wonderful. As someone said when I was a boy living in Swansea, the beaches are so good that if it was warmer no one would ever bother going to the south of France!! The good news is maybe I will manage a nostalgic trip and join you next time.

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  5. Thanks Simon for another entertaining and informative blog!! ... and all your hard work and effort in bringing it to us. It was great to share the ride with you without the pain, discomfort, lack of food, lack of a bed or the challenges of the Welsh weather and hills!! Long may you reign in the rain!!

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  6. I have enjoyed reading your report especially that I can visualise most of the spots that you refer too . The West Wales weather can be unpredictable but you can be sure of rain . The next leg , the Gower and Swansea Bay a delight to cycle and to enjoy the mirador. Arwyn

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Thanks for commenting! I do get to see the comments but it's not easy to reply when I'm on a ride.