The length of Orkney

Today I completed the Orkney equivalent of Land's End to John O'Groats by cycling to Burwick, the most southerly point connected to the main island (okay, excluding all the other islands), completing yesterday's ride from Birsay in the north-west.

The direct route from Kirkwall isn't far, maybe 20 miles, but I stuck to the wiggly coast making it 50 miles there,  less on the way back.  Lots of tiny roads within touching distance of deserted coastline, not many people or cars.  One little wiggle took me down a road to the coast with just a farm and a church looking out to sea, graveyard full of generations of local families.

After 35 miles I crossed the first of Churchill's fixed barrages between the islands, built to form an eastern defence to Scapa Flow after U-boat U47 torpedoed a warship with the loss of 850 men.  On the tiny island of Lamb's Holm I stopped at the Italian Chapel, made by Italian prisoners of war from two nissen huts (I saw this spelt Nissan yesterday but I don't think Nissan was helping us with our war effort).  Apart from the shape, you would think it was a purpose built building.   Great craftsmanship and art using scarce and basic materials.  Really impressive.

The journey was better than the destination - Burwick is a scruffy ferry port with a portacabin waiting room and loo, a car park, and nothing else.  On the way back another detour took me to the seaside hamlet of Herston, a row of beautiful old cottages bordering the sea with views to die for.  The sun even came out after a moist and misty start.

There is some football to be watched tonight, then I'm on the overnight ferry to Shetland.  Can't wait...

Kirkwall

Returning from the north-western corner of Orkney, against the wind, wasn't so much fun. It started raining.  It was only a shower luckily but I was glad to get to Kirkwall, the capital.  En route I was cheered up by the welcome sign to the hamlet of Evie, which the local boys had changed to Evil.  More empty single-track roads with views of bays and islands, accompanied by the sight and sound of groups of beautiful oystercatchers.  Orkney has 73 islands, 16 inhabited.   I think most of the 23,000 population lives in the two main towns of Kirkwall and Stromness.

The youth hostel is big, with long, low buildings,  military in origin - during the wars the navy was stationed at nearby Scapa Flow.  "Please allow ten minutes for hot water to reach the showers".  But there was a very warm welcome from Dave the warden, who lives here with his wife and two small boys.  What a life (in a good way).  He's also the maintenance man in winter, and a part-time rock climbing instructor.

Due to trains, ferries and alarm clock malfunctions, I'd only managed four hours sleep the last three nights, so I went to bed at 9 for a luxurious ten hours' sleep.

The forecast for tomorrow was for heavy rain all day.  And windy.  I was considering my options.  When I woke it was pouring and low clouds enveloped the hills.  But the forecast had changed. Dry after 10am.  I was welcome to leave my panniers and get a shower before boarding the Shetland ferry at midnight. Yipee!

PS. Outside the Birsay Bay tearoom, my second lunch stop, must be one of the shortest stretches of de-restricted road. About 50 yards leading to one house, the tearoom, and a grassy footpath.

Orkney

Today dawned cloudy, mild and dry.  The ferry to Stromness, on Orkney, left from Scrabster, a - shall we say -functional port maintaining a polite separation from Thurso.  Good views of Hoy as we passed, which looks an amazing place with towering sea cliffs to the South, mellowing to Lakeland type fells which give way to low meadowland to the North.   Not bad for a smallish island.

The main street of Scrabster hugs the bay and is paved with large stones - interesting to ride on.  But it soon gave way to tiny, empty lanes rolling through the fields.  Nice cycling with a fresh breeze behind me, but the terrain is a bit like north Norfolk - easy on the eye but surprisingly tough on the legs.  I wasn't sure if I had eaten enough to fuel my ride so  after 10 miles I stopped at the Skara Brae café, which also had a well-preserved neolithic village, 5000 years old and a World Heritage site. Quite good.

The hills were still troublesome so after another seven miles I stopped at snother café.   Well, who knows how long to the next chance?