Kirkwall

Returning from the north-western corner of Orkney, against the wind, wasn't so much fun. It started raining.  It was only a shower luckily but I was glad to get to Kirkwall, the capital.  En route I was cheered up by the welcome sign to the hamlet of Evie, which the local boys had changed to Evil.  More empty single-track roads with views of bays and islands, accompanied by the sight and sound of groups of beautiful oystercatchers.  Orkney has 73 islands, 16 inhabited.   I think most of the 23,000 population lives in the two main towns of Kirkwall and Stromness.

The youth hostel is big, with long, low buildings,  military in origin - during the wars the navy was stationed at nearby Scapa Flow.  "Please allow ten minutes for hot water to reach the showers".  But there was a very warm welcome from Dave the warden, who lives here with his wife and two small boys.  What a life (in a good way).  He's also the maintenance man in winter, and a part-time rock climbing instructor.

Due to trains, ferries and alarm clock malfunctions, I'd only managed four hours sleep the last three nights, so I went to bed at 9 for a luxurious ten hours' sleep.

The forecast for tomorrow was for heavy rain all day.  And windy.  I was considering my options.  When I woke it was pouring and low clouds enveloped the hills.  But the forecast had changed. Dry after 10am.  I was welcome to leave my panniers and get a shower before boarding the Shetland ferry at midnight. Yipee!

PS. Outside the Birsay Bay tearoom, my second lunch stop, must be one of the shortest stretches of de-restricted road. About 50 yards leading to one house, the tearoom, and a grassy footpath.