The Summer Isles

After Dunbeg, the hills had some normal stretches between them.  After a beautiful beach at Clashnessie - sun, acres of empty pale sand, and inviting turquoise sea -  I took a detour,  which I later regretted, to Stoer lighthouse.  From high up on the headland tou could see rhe Outer Hebrides to the west,  and Skye to the south.  I saw a porpoise in the sea down below.   And there was a tea hut.   On the south east horizon, four giant peaks appeared in the distance.  They followed me round all day, like the four horsemen of the apocalypse.

Another detour to Achmelvich Youth Hostel, where I originally planned to stay. Long, hilly, pretty road to a great beach and a picturesque if basic youth hostel. It would be a memorable place for a family holiday. Lochinver was the first place I came to that made anything of the sea for tourists.   The first place where the sea was something orher than a workplace.  Not much there though, except for a Wayfarers' Café. 

There was a steep pull out of Lochinver beside a bubbling stream, then a gorgeous ride up a wooded valley.  As I reached the top the four horsemen were waiting for me.  One had a cartoon-like appearance; a steep sided dome.  I later learned it was called Stac Pollaigh.   The others were Suilven,  Cul Mor, and Canisp.

The last 20 miles were a slog on empty legs.  It was pretty,  skirting the sea, and it should have been flat beside a loch, but it wasn't.   Eventually over the hill to see the Summer Isles spread out in the sea before me - lovely.   Almost worth the ride.  Another five miles along the coast and I found the Summer Isles Hotel - hurray.  I was politely ushered out of the rather posh hotel reception and into the distinctly separate bar.  Maybe because I wasn't wearing a tie.  Phoned the hostel to explain I had been detained.

At the bar I met a couple who had passed me earlier.   They were wild camping, and had kayaks and mountain bikes in the car. Camped on a deserted island off CAPE WRATH! ! last night.  Ran up Stac Pollaigh that afternoon.  Swam in a loch to get clean.  I felt a bit inadequate.