Last leg

Achininver is a basic hostel.  Outside toilet.  Shower in the annex. Access is half a mile down a grass and rock track through the heather.  Extremely well provided with midges, so much so that you want to run between buildings.  About a month ago, I had an email from the warden, enquiring if I minded being in a mixed dormitory.  I did not.  The reality didn't match my imagination though: I was sharing with an elderly Canadian couple.  Once inside, it was a friendly, cosy place.

The final step was to Ullapool.  Several miles retracing my steps through Achiltibuie,  and then following a series of lochs.  How hard could that be?  Well they were certainly scenic: vast lochs reaching into the lap of the mountains, bounded by my old friend Stac Pollaigh and I think Cul Beag.  Huge, glowering forms towering over me.  There was a strong head wind whipping up white horses on the loch, so I was glad to reach Ullapool. 

I decided to catch the bike bus back to Inverness rarher than another 55 miles of hot sun and head winds.  This left me with six hours to pass the time.  Ullapool is a nice place: south facing and definitely tourist oriented.   Several chip shops and cafés, and a few souvenir shops.  The ferry to Lewis lands here once a day.  After an hour I was bored, and hot.  But the alternative was worse.  I just hoped the bike bus would have space for me.  Assuming all goes to plan, I'll be on the sleeper train home from Inverness tonight.