The length of Orkney

Today I completed the Orkney equivalent of Land's End to John O'Groats by cycling to Burwick, the most southerly point connected to the main island (okay, excluding all the other islands), completing yesterday's ride from Birsay in the north-west.

The direct route from Kirkwall isn't far, maybe 20 miles, but I stuck to the wiggly coast making it 50 miles there,  less on the way back.  Lots of tiny roads within touching distance of deserted coastline, not many people or cars.  One little wiggle took me down a road to the coast with just a farm and a church looking out to sea, graveyard full of generations of local families.

After 35 miles I crossed the first of Churchill's fixed barrages between the islands, built to form an eastern defence to Scapa Flow after U-boat U47 torpedoed a warship with the loss of 850 men.  On the tiny island of Lamb's Holm I stopped at the Italian Chapel, made by Italian prisoners of war from two nissen huts (I saw this spelt Nissan yesterday but I don't think Nissan was helping us with our war effort).  Apart from the shape, you would think it was a purpose built building.   Great craftsmanship and art using scarce and basic materials.  Really impressive.

The journey was better than the destination - Burwick is a scruffy ferry port with a portacabin waiting room and loo, a car park, and nothing else.  On the way back another detour took me to the seaside hamlet of Herston, a row of beautiful old cottages bordering the sea with views to die for.  The sun even came out after a moist and misty start.

There is some football to be watched tonight, then I'm on the overnight ferry to Shetland.  Can't wait...