Tuesday, 15 July 2014

The long and windy road

Today was a big day: a three Lucozade day. It was grey and drizzling when I left the hostel.  The blue Shetland flags were flying horizontal in the wind.  There was only one thing to do.  I got on the bike and set off next door for breakfast.  Fighting against the wind I climbed over the hills out of Lerwick. Downhill was more difficult too with the wind trying to snatch a the handlebars.

My route took me due west, exploring the western mainland in two big loops and a dead-end ride before heading north to Muckle Roe near Brae for the night.  After 20 miles I stopped at Bixter post office for elevenses, and had the bright idea of leaving my panniers for my return.

Starting the first loop south to Skeld there was a Road Closed sign.  Normally cyclists can pass ok, but this was serious.  A stretch of 100 metres of tarmac was removed and there was a deep trench, maybe 5 metres wide, across the road.  A crane was working to replace a bridge.  With the ok from the workmen, I was able to scramble down and across.  The rest of the loop had fine views of the sea and fine hills: no settlements more than a few houses.

I was looking forward to lunch in the bakery café at Walls, but it had closed, so I had a sandwich instead.
Things only started to look up when I reached the furthest west point of the route and headed back up the Vale of Walls.  A gentle climb with the wind behind me: followed by a detour to Sandwick to the north.  The sun came out a bit. With a Belgian couple we watched gannets plummeting into the sea, and wondered what living here would be like.

After climbing out of Sandwick it seemed to be downhill all the way back to Bixter, passing many small lochs in lovely scenery.  Panniers recovered I took the Twatt road ... to the village of the same name, which had amused the childish part of my brain (most of it) for a lot of the day.  More big scenic hills on the way north via a pub meal at the village of Voe.  There are lots of Voes on Shetland: it means an inlet  or sea loch, but I think this is the only town.

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