Iona

At the very western tip of Mull lies the isle of Iona, a famous pilgrimage destination since St. Columba landed here in the 600s AD.  Getting there still feels like a pilgrimage today, 20 miles along a fairly straight single track road by the sea, except that was obscured by mist after my post office lunch stop.
A short ferry crossing, on a car ferry with no cars (there's little need for them on Iona), and a longer walk takes you to the Abbey, still in use by a thriving Iona Community today.  Iona was the centre of much religious innovation and the highly decorated stone celtic crosses are thought to have originated on Iona.  There are several excellent ones here, as well as loads of decorated stone grave covers. 
The island itself is a few miles long, covered with rocky outcrops, andvhas a few beaches of white sand.  There is plenty of provision for tourists, plus a primary school, a post office in a tin hut on the beach, and even a fire station.  A hundred or so residents, I would guess, but it seems to be thriving.
I'm staying in a B&B tonight as the hostel apparently gets booked up a year in advance, so I plan to make full use of luxuries like towels, TV, no snoring room-mates.