As I cycled slowly through the tiny village of Ardfern, trying to make out house names in the gloaming, a voice: "Simon, is that you?". My B&B had found me, and 18 1/2 hours after leaving home I was very pleased to arrive to a friendly welcome.
Oban sparkled like a bright sapphire in the afternoon sun. I had fallen in love with it just by looking at it on a map (weird, I know), and arriving last year in the grey rain was a disappointment. Today I was sorry to leave, and took a couple of detours and a dozen or so photos first.
I'm definitely still in the Highlands. Lumpy roads led me to Seil Island, one of the islands dangling off the west coast, and reached by a beautiful old bridge, which was overlooked by a pub. Tempting, but I didn't have time.
The whole of Seil island is as picturesque as it is hilly. The jewel of Seil is Ellenabeich, a coastal hamlet backed by tall cliffs, with a small harbour and not just a pub but a micro-brewery. Only time for a few photos and no beers. Highly recommended for a visit.
Dangling off Seil is another island, Luing, but my cunning plan was thwarted by the fact that the ferry was just about to have a 90 minute tea break, so I wasn't able to visit - in hindsight, a good thing.
This plan wasn't working out too well, and it got worse. Leaving Seil my route turned South, but there was a suspicious 'no through road' sign. Consulting some other cyclists who had a map proved that my planned route went over a big hill on a bridleway, for several miles. It would have been a disasters. Who planned this anyway? I went back (up a big hill) to the main road instead. Serves me right.
Even though I was on the main road, there was hardly any traffic, and it was enjoyable cycling along the coast to within a few miles of my destination where I arrived at Craobh Haven, a sort of marina port with a lot of leisure yachts, and a nice pub. It was past dinner time so I was forced to stop.
It was only three miles to the B&B in Ardfern, but there was one final surprise: the road to Ardfern wasn't a road but a track. Just like riding the Pilgrims Way again, only with puddles. And bigger hills. But actually, it was not too bad, and it was direct. A bit too much to pack into one day, but I certainly got the best out of the weather.
Hi Simon. It looks fantastic! .... very envious as I sit here nursing my man flu ..... but for an afternoon 40 miles is a good introduction..... 60 miles is one heck of a start! I hope it goes very well and look forward to your another informative blog and stunning photos during your sojourn. No pressure!! Best wishes and a tail wind. Mike
ReplyDeleteBrilliant blog post Simon. I have good memories of a couple of days in Oban, a really special place. Looking forward to more.
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