Introduction to Arran

First impressions of Arran were excellent.  A welcoming youth hostel in a glorious setting, which only improved as the rain stopped and the surrounding hills were bathed in evening sunlight.  Shower, fish & chips, all the basics were better than usual.  Deer munching gorse by the roadside, unperturbed as I walked by.
Arriving at the hostel with me were three drowned rats who hadn't been so lucky with the deluge. They were cycling Lands End to John O'Groats - via Arran? Not a bad idea when you think about it: you can catch a ferry from Ardrossan in Ayrshire, cycle halfway up Arran, convenient youth hostel, and then the ferry I arrived on from the north of the island. Today they're off to Oban, then, controversially, the Outer Hebrides. They'll cycle from bottom to top, then from Stornoway to Ullapool, from where it's several days hilly cycling to John O'Groats.

The big decision of the day was which way round Arran to cycle. I decided on anti-clockwise: do the less populated, more scenic west coast first. And the east coast has more tea stops, villages and other distractions for tired legs.  And a few big hills, right at the end.  Weather forecast is fine, dry with light westerly winds. 
As I put on my damp shoes, I noticed a fat tick embedded in my ankle.  Reviewed the options for removing it and then did it the wrong way.  How long does it take to see symptoms of Lyme disease?
In my mind, the ride divided into quarters, punctuated by refreshments.  The first quarter was good: empty roads by the sea, not too hilly, views back across to Kintyre.  A pair of goldfinches danced along the road in front of me.  An oystercatcher wolf whistled, probably admiring my tanned legs. A heron, standing guard like a meerkat. Several peacocks.  Enjoyable cycling - it was all lovely, but no different to what I'd seen in the last few days: nothing compelled me to stop and take photos. Apologies to Arran fans, but there it is.
Something that is different about Arran: the place names.  Lagg, Thunderguy, Lamlash.  There is very little trace of Gaelic here - it was very prominent between Oban and Tayvallich, and on Arran and Jura, but faded out on Kintyre.

After riding the first quarter, I came to the first real settlement, Blackwaterfoot. It had the feel of a seaside holiday village, probably the first seaside village since, maybe, Pittenweem, way back on the east coast in my first year of this trip.  Tea and unhealthy snacks were consumed on a seaside bench, watching the tourists go by.