The B road up the east of Kintyre is everything that the western A road is not. Hilly, winding, interesting, downwind. Plenty of chevrons to entertain the legs, and a different sea view round every corner to delight the eyes. I'm told it was the inspiration for the Beatles' song The Long And Winding Road. Hedgerows full of campions, and the few houses that I passed had glorious displays of azaleas, which seem to grow well round here.
Not many villages, but conveniently about halfway is the small village of Carradale, with a post office cum tearoom, another café, and several hotels. How they all find business I don't know. Perhaps it's a base for walking. The Carradale Hotel was closed for meals but doing an extensive range of snacks, so I had several. One of the other clients told me that the rest of the road to Claonaig, where I catch the ferry was "interesting" by which he meant more hilly, winding, etc. than what I'd just done.
He was right, it was more interesting, in a good way. The sun came out. The last 15 miles are single track and very varied, with great views over to Arran, looking majestic in the sunlight.
About 5pm a threatening bank of black cloud rolled over and headed towards Arran. As I reached the ferry port at Claonaig, the heavens opened in a biblical downpour. I sat in the shelter, counting my blessings. 30 minutes later when the Arran ferry arrived it was merely raining and I dashed aboard. When I asked for a return ticket, the chap said "I tell you what pal, as it's such an awfu' day, you just go on in and get dry, and I'll give you a ticket for the way back.". No charge. What can you say except thankyou?
Wow. A very varied day out. Love the sign...'very closed' on Sunday: They clearly do not want you to be in any doubt. Sounds like you may need another evening of Aga dried clothes
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