As soon as I escaped from the M25, countryside and proper villages started to appear. I had a completely unnecessary tour of Canvey Island, which was quiet, sunny and isolated from the Thames by a huge 15 foot sea wall. Next came the Southend conglomeration, in complete contrast busy and open to the river.
First Leigh-on-sea, up market and buzzing with café culture, then Westcliff and Southend, with its ridiculously long pier. Saw the Kursaal theatre, presumably the home of the Kursaal Flyers. While sampling an ice cream on the prom., I realised I had a chance to catch the ferry to Burnham-on-Crouch before 5pm. A furious cycle round the back roads ensued, but I arrived a couple of minutes too late, so I'm camping on the other side of the Crouch.
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Thanks for commenting! I do get to see the comments but it's not easy to reply when I'm on a ride.