Homeward bound, part two

Farewell, Eilean Siar.  What a special place!  So varied, so peaceful, so wild, so welcoming.  It's a hard place to live, and it's difficult to see how the outer Hebrides will thrive: fishing and crofting are in decline, and every fifth property seems to be for sale. There is still Harris Tweed, and tourism.  Tourism is small, homely, intimate. Everyone knows everyone else.  You even feel you know the other visitors,  after seeing them repeatedly in different places.   All the cafés and hostels are independent and quirky.

It probably has to change, but I loved it the way it is.  Many people commented on the unseasonably wintry weather, and I'm sorry if I went on about it, but it was part of the experience.   It didn't stop me enjoying it, rather opened the possibility that it could be even better another time.

As I caught the ferry to Uig on Skye this morning,  CalMac still couldn't say which sailings will be affected by industrial action tomorrow.  I got chatting to another cyclist, a Scot, who was heading home early because of the weather.   He is looking to buy somewhere out there: property prices are very low but they often come with crofting responsibilities.  You have to do something with the land.   And he was in two minds about buying it as a second home, contributing to the hollowing out of the community

Skye is busy. Portree, a small touristy town, has traffic and tourists everywhere.  At the bijou café I felt processed: the service was efficient, the millionaire slice excellent.   But none of the waitresses were interested in me (for several reasons I can fully understand) - they had a job to do, and no time to chat.  I'm sure I'll get used to it.

Skye has its own beauties though, and it was a much more relaxed ride back to Broadford hostel (which required a credit card to secure a booking: most hostels on the outer Hebrides were just let yourself in).  And just before the turning to the hostel, a pizzeria.  Perfect.   Tourism has its advantages.  Great pizza too - even better than my pasta dish.