The trip back to Inverness was as it should be. No cancellations this year and I woke among the hills as we were going through Aviemore. I shared a cabin with a very interesting chap from San Francisco who was heading for three weeks away from the Internet to do some wwriting, and probably thought I was slightly mad.
You may remember that the cancelled train last year made me miss most of the first day's ride in order to catch up with my pre-booked schedule. So this year I decided to fill that gap by cycling to Golspie and catching the train back. About 80 miles before 6pm when the last train leaves Golspie. Just about do-able.
After dumping my panniers at the youth hostel, I set off in a brisk breeze over the Moray Firth. Signs said Welcome to Ross and Cromarty, and to the Black Isle. Funny because it's not black, and it's not an island, but a twenty mile long thin promontory. There was still quite a bit of snow on the hills to the west, but I was just warm enough as I headed east on quiet lanes with a following wind. The sunny village of Avoch, hugging the shore, made me want to linger but I pressed on to Fortrose, a mini town with a ruined cathedral.
Chanonry point was next, a narrow point in the Firth where dolphins can often be seen close to the shore. I was rewarded by a sight of just one, only a few metres out, and decided to press on.
Round the point was the pretty village of Rosemarkie, which featured in an Ian Rankin murder story I just finished, but there were no suspicious goings-on today. A few hills, and next stop was Cromarty where the ferry goes across the Cromarty Firth to Nigg. I'd done a third of the distance and it was only 11 o'clock. I relaxed and stopped for a coffee. And bacon roll.
Now, the ferry. There were plenty of signs but it wasn't obvious where to catch it. I asked in a local shop. "I'm so sorry. It's not running this year. We have tried to let everyone know but it's listed all over the internet."
Zut alors! I was sure I had checked. (If you check now and find it clearly isnt running, I don't want to know thanks. Or even worse, if it IS running I still don't want to know.)
There was only one thing for it. I would have to head right back round the Firth of Cromarty, double quick. But how would I be able to make the train? Well I certainly didn't know but I didn't have many other options. Tune in to the next exciting episode to find out what happened! !!
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