Monday, 22 May 2023

Lands End and Penzance

Sennen Cove

Capstan House (winching boats up the harbour)

Not this way


I was the only one for breakfast at the Youth Hostel.  I felt obliged to eat a bit of everything at the unlimited continental breakfast, plus the full English, before bidding a fond farewell.  I rode past a busy Land's End airport and then down to beautiful, wild Sennen Cove.  The last mile to Lands End was on a rough track overlooking the sea, route 3 on the National Cycle Network.  At the gate to Land's End I met another cyclist, Will, carrying just a saddle pack.  He was just starting LEJoG, having ridden from Penzance that morning.

Land's End


We took each other's photos by the sign, I wished him luck and carried on.  The roads were quiet and undulating, unless you went down to the sea, which wasn't often.  Fields full of freshly-cut hay drying in the sun. Where it had already been gathered in, the farmers were hard at work ploughing for the next crop, seagulls also working hard looking for titbits in the newly turned earth.

Porthcurno 


I went down to Porthcurno,  where there's a Global Communications Museum, commemorating the first  trans-Atlantic telegraph cable.  Also a cafe.  Once again I was the only customer.   Perhaps I'm beginning to smell?  Porthcurno is also the site of the beautiful Minack open-air theatre, cut into the cliff face with a backdrop of blue seas and rocky cliffs.  

Lamorna Cove (picture doesn't do it justice) 


Then it was down to the lovely, remote Lamorna Cove, a perfect small beach, harbour and cafe.  At the next table a Dutch family were tucking into enormous pasties and chips, and cream teas.  I could have stayed there a long time, but I had a train to catch, ten miles and 200m climbing away at Penzance.

Up and over ...

...to Mousehole

Over the final mountain was Mousehole, with its picturesque semicircular harbour.  Very difficult to get a photo of it all, however.  I hung around the harbour for a bit and then went on.  From here it was a pretty, flattish road round the coast, with views across Penzance bay to Penzance, St Michael's Mount and Marazion.  All the way to Penzance, with the station and railway line plonked right along the sea front.

Coast cyclepath to Penzance

Newlyn harbour

It's been the most brilliant  week.  I've loved every minute, even the bits I hated.  Weather fantastic, scenery outstanding, hills unbelievable, tea stops plentiful, locals friendly, bike and legs kept going despite everything.  I'm catching the train home from Penzance today.   I can't wait to come back and do some more.

Thank you for your company, your comments and your stamina if you read every post!  There just seemed to be a lot worth writing about.  The sunshine helped a lot with that.

I'll write a summary with maps and distances in the next few days.

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