Are we nearly there yet?

It's only a (longish) day's ride from Whitstable to home, so the end is definitely in sight.  However, as I've said before, it's about the journey, not getting somwhere.  And I'm not taking the direct route.  As I left Margate, a lump of land appeared across the sea in front of me.  Could it be the other bank of the Thames?  Well, no.  It was the Isle of Sheppey, about which I've just told you all I know.  And then later there's the Isle of Grain, which is not really an island.  Maybe it was once.

The hotel was a real treat.  I dined well, but I didn't sleep that well.  Somehow I've developed a streaming cold so I was continually blowing my nose in the night, and I had to sleep on my back to stop getting all blocked up.  Added to that, I've got a painful crack on the dry skin on my heel, so I smothered it either E45 and then had to dangle my foot out of the bed while it dried.  I'm not saying this to get sympathy,  it's just how it is.  But you might be forgiven for thinking I'm trying to make it look hard - well, it does seem to be hard this year. Just look at previous years to see how 'easy' it normally is.

However, it's amazing what an 18 course unlimited breakfast can do for your spirits.  The weather forecast for today is cold, rainy, but less windy than yesterday,  down from 17mph to 10mph, AND it's gone round to the north. I will be going north to get to the Isle of Sheppey, but never mind. 

I left Faversham along a track down the creek - at least that was the plan.  By the way, why are there so many creeks in North Kent?  Faversham,  Dartford, Deptford,  and many others that I encountered today.   Is it because they are very short?  The Medway is a river, but I can't think of any others between Sandwich and London.

Back to the Faversham creek.  Or not in fact.  The cyclepath had a horrid bike-unfriendly kissing gate.   Just after I'd unpacked everything and lifted my bike over the gate, a nice French lady walked past and told me there are another five of them.  She suggested an alternative path, marked as a cycle route on my map, bur nobody had told the farmer.   It went across a wheat field, through long grass, a few nettles, a couple of kissing gates, a field of cows, and two very narrow bridges.   It was fun, in an annoying sort of way.   

First attempt

Bad track

Bad bridge

The rest of the morning was half more tracks with a few unfriendly gates, and half along the real back lanes of Kent, very beautiful,  a bit undulating and with lots of water.  I came within a couple of miles of Sittingbourne but turned north towards Sheppey, through a very industrial area around the M2 before stopping for 11s at Iwade, not yet on the island.  I also got some Lem-sip capsules which seem to have tamed my cold.

Another creek

NCN 1, with a bike gate - but it's locked

Garden of England

First impressions of Sheppey are bad.  The approach is on a busy road, with lifting bridge and parallel railway and cycle path, overpassed by an even busier A249 on a huge high bridge.  Once on the island, the two roads continue through a couple of miles of swampy nothingness, with a few cows grazing. A line of low hills to the north is where it all happens.  And by all, I mean, not much.

Approaching Sheppey

Marshlands

Castellated church at Eastchurch 

I looped up the hill and then back down south again to Harty Ferry, which has nothing but a church and a pub, which was shut for a wedding.   Then up and round again to Leydown-on-sea at the far east of the island, where the fun starts.  It has a few caravan parks, a pie and mash shop, chip shops several amusement arcades and a mobility scooter showroom, in addition to a big sandy beach with beach huts.  A rough road carried on south to Shellness, a private hamlet overlooking Whitstable opposite .  At my tea stop the lady serving me referred to Shellness as "the Wicker Man people" which matches my impression.

Leydown-on-Sea

Shellness

View to Whitstable,  from Shellness

It was idyllic in a little sun trap as I idly had my tea and cake, then booked a campsite in the middle of the island.  Despite the forecast, I'd had no rain save a few spots early on, and quite a bit of sunshine.   But as I rode north, dark clouds were gathering over Essex, and the rain started just before I reached the campsite.  Just a shower.

Bliss

Teatime visitor

Dark clouds over Essex

The lady at the campsite was concerned about me because it's going to be cold tonight (4 degrees), and she offered me an electric hookup and heater at no extra charge.  But my tent is so small I can't see how I could safely have it in the tent, so I said no.  I hope I won't regret that.  It was quite cold in the rain, but I waited maybe half an hour, and the rain stopped, the wind dropped, and I set my tent up in the warm sun.