Sunday 11 September 2022

Mileages and maps: Gowerton to Bridgwater


Day

Where

Miles

Ascent (m)

Hilliness %

mph

Mon

Gowerton to Port Eynon

38

603

160%

10

Tues

Port Eynon to Monknash

63

1091

172%

10

Weds

Monknash to Chepstow

80

876

110%

11.3

Thurs

Chepstow to west of Bristol

45

659

146%

10.1

Fri

west of Bristol to Bridgwater

64

621

97%

10.6


Total / average

290

3,850

133%

10.5


Confirming that the first couple of days were quite hilly.   I haven't got a measure for "Raininess factor", but I think my trips this year would score highly on that as well.   There is a lesson to learn from this: never go on a cycling tour during a drought.

My entire trip round the Welsh coastline took 947 miles and 17,850 metres of climbing.  Surprisingly, that makes it more hilly than Scotland (4,510 miles and 75,600m ascent).  The Isle of Man was more hilly still, but only 120 miles and 2,596m ascent.

England is the least hilly by a long way, so far ... but there are hills to look forward to in the south west.

Maps

Apologies that the blue line of my track seems to be the same colour as some of the cycle routes on OpenCycleMap.

Day 1: Gowerton to Port Eynon

(the mileage scale seems to include my train journey here)


Day 2: Port Eynon to Monknash



Day 3: Monknash to Chepstow



Day 4: Chepstow to W. Bristol




Day 5: w Bristol to Bridgwater

(elevation chart must have been affected by changing air pressure through the day)

Saturday 10 September 2022

A Different Goodbye

Last night, we heard the news of the death of Queen Elizabeth II.  The end of the Elizabethan era, which has lasted my whole life.  An extraordinary life well lived*,  and an inspiring example of power and leadership exercised through through compassion and service.  She was such a fixture in our lives that we probably don't yet know how much we will miss her.   I'm not a historian so others can write fuller tributes.   But it is a big moment.

(* I believe King Charles also said this today, but, with respect, I said it first)

This morning it was time to say au revoir to my sister with thanks for lovely hospitality and  company,  as I headed back over the mountain to Portishead.  She pointed out there was a much quicker way down the valley to Clevedon.  But that would mean missing out some of the coast, so the mountain it was.
Clevedon pier

Clevedon beach and bathing pool

Today is my last day of this trip, since there's a good return journey available from Bridgwater. Very hilly to Clevedon, which is a nice little seaside town with a mini pier and a seaside bathing pool.  Several cafes, but it wasn't quite elevenses time, something I later regretted.  After Clevedon, pancake flat for the next 40 miles!   Nice country lanes, with a few other cyclists and a tractor or two.
Shut!

Strawberry Line 

Crossing the river Yeo was a problem.  RidewithGPS had found a cycle path across the river, but it wasn't yet open.  It looked finished, but it was very definitely shut.  An eight mile diversion was needed, involving the A370, but on the plus side, I got to go on the Strawberry Line cycle route, which had a nice cafe at Yatton Station.
Where the zyder comes vrum

Country Church,  flag at half-mast

More country lanes.  Country Church, single bell tolling in mourning.  A few flags at half mast.  Nice riding except for nuisance rain in my face.  The wind had changed from a south-easterly headwind in Wales to a south-westerly headwind in Somerset. 

After a long time away from the sea, I came to the aptly-named Sand Bay, a long beach of sand dunes, a single crescent of beachside bungalows, and a Pontins.
Sand Bay, in the drizzle

Approaching Weston: East Pier, with Cardiff in the distance 
 
Grand Pier

Large bathing pool

Just round the headland was Weston-super-Mare, a very large town bordering on city size, with a very large beach, wide and a long way to the sea at low tide.  I know it quite well because our grandparents retired to Weston and we were regular visitors.  It's got everything a holidaymaker, or retired grandparent could possibly want: two piers (one burnt down), two open-air swimming pools, one with high diving boards, donkey rides on the sand, shops, cafes, even a model railway exhibition!  In the back streets I found a little bakery for lunch, which had all my favourite things.

London prices but Weston portion sizes
 
Looking back across Weston sands

Uphill boatyard?

Uphill country park

Directly after Weston there's a place called Uphill, which is not up a hill, but has a nice nature reserve path across the levels.  Brean was next, where it turns out the NCN path goes 6 miles across the sandy beach. It was getting beyond a joke now. There's a warning sign and a road alternative, so I took that.  Very windy now so it was hard work.  Brean is a long thin place along the coast; not that you could see the sea.  One side of the road is a series of caravan parks backing onto the sand dunes, and the other is various amusement parks and another Pontins.
Brean: cycle path on the sand


  
Giraffic Park

The tracks met again at Burnham-on-Sea, a traditional  seaside town with esplanade and pier.  And a seafront Wetherspoons,  ideal for the thirsty cyclist.  It was now so windy that it requited two hands to wrench the front door open.

Burnham

River Brue

Windy, winding lanes
Only 6 miles to Bridgwater,  lanes mostly sheltered by high hedges.  And another annoying closed cycle path along the river Parrett,:more flood defences, but not a problem really.  Bridgwater itself was full of rush-hour traffic: I didn't  see its good side.
Route to Bridgwater:  Shut!

Highlight of Bridgwater 

The train route home involved going the wrong way first, to Taunton, then to Reading.  I arrived five minutes late for the hourly train at 1750, but the train was ten minutes late, so I sort of ran across the bridge, carrying my bike up & down the steps.  A 5 minute change at Taunton, and I was on a non-stop train to Reading.  Cost for an on-the-spot ticket (not advance): £33, good value.

I'll post some maps and statistics in a day or so.

Thursday 8 September 2022

Back to England

It's time to say a fond farewell to Wales.  I've enjoyed my time here, although it seems too brief a time to feel I really know Wales.

The hostel was very welcoming, but it was like the Marie Celeste.  I didn't see another guest during my stay. 

I've booked into luxury accommodation tonight, staying with my sister just outside Bristol.  So a short day for me.  I had time to do some sightseeing,  so went across the River Wye to a little peninsula which anchors the (old) Severn Bridge on the north side.  Across the Wye, I was in England again.   A quick ride down to the southern tip at Beachley, where the ferry used to run from, and back to Chepstow for elevenses.

Across the Wye

River Wye

Old Ferry, Old Bridge at Beachley

Chepstow's a nice town, although it's infested with hills.  There can't  be many flat roads there.
Chepstow Castle

Chepstow 

Severn Bridge 

Across the Severn Bridge, only to be confronted with a closure of NCN route 4, which was supposed to be along the bank of the Severn.  They are doing flood prevention and 'ecological' work.  Groundhog day.  Another diversion, a few failed attempts to rejoin the coast path, but all on nice quiet roads, so it was okay.

Closed for upgrades

Upgraded coast path

Eventually I made it onto the path, newly upgraded, by Severn Beach.  Lovely.  Just in time for lunch.  While I was there in the cafe, a massive downpour gave me much pleasure.
Rain

From Severn "Beach" to Portishead was all enjoyable cycling on a set of intricate cycle routes.  About half was away from roads, and quite a bit was on a wide pavement by a busy road, but it was all fine.  The highlight was crossing the Avon Bridge, very high and very light(!), and scenic.  Somehow I avoided the industrial area round Avonmouth.

River Avon

There are two Portisheads: the Marina and the older town.  Portishead  Marina seems to be entirely newly built, centred on the large marina.   It's dotted with art installations, and judging by the cafĂ©  quite expensive.  I asked for a cold drink, and was offered a Ginger Zinger: apple, carrot and ginger, for £4.50.  I could have had a pint of beer for that price, or maybe two pints in Wetherspoons.  They must be expensive carrots.
Arty Portishead 



Scenic Portishead 

Zinging Portishead 

Just over a small hill is the main town of Portishead,, mostly sitting up on the hills overlooking the sea.
Traditional Portishead

From here I leave the coast: I have 9 miles and one hill before I get to my sister's delightful abode.  That's all for today, folks.
Autumn

Cardiff to Chepstow, the difficult day continues

View from Penarth

The other side of the Bristol Channel was looking closer all the time.  
First sight of Cardiff Bay
Cardiff was much like Swansea, lovely to enter, not so nice to leave.  My coastal route into Cardiff involved a hill, but gave some nice views over the bay.  Much like Swansea, I did not explore the city, but instead rode over the bay barrage, stopping to admire the fish bypass, which is even larger than Twickenham's own fish bypass.  
Fish bypass
Whizz through the harbour, and out the other side   I was late for an appointment with a bed and a shower in Chepstow.  So if you want to find out what Cardiff is like, sorry  but this is the wrong blog for you. 

Leaving Cardiff

Leaving Cardiff was a nightmare.  The obvious coastal road went past some sort of steelworks,  but was choc-a-bloc with heavy traffic: vans, lorries, and cars.  Slow moving, and not wide enough to filter inside the lane of traffic.  It was horrible.  I rode on the pavement, which was awful - covered with black mucky grit.  Signs warned of slag lorries crossing.  It was raining a bit.  And then I got a puncture.  My first in all the thousands of miles round the coast.  And in a horrible place to fix it.  The wheel was filthy black.  Marathon Plus tyres are pretty sturdy, but a big, 1cm shard of glass had managed to get through.  It was miserable.

Puncture fixed, I set off into the traffic, gritting my teeth and riding as fast as I could.  Garmin didn't  help: "turn left onto trunk road".  Luckily that was only a roundabout.

After an age,  Garmin said "onto unclassified road"   30mph signs.  But nobody had told the drivers, who were still doing 60mph.
The end of the nightmare?
Eventually, quiet roads returned and my stress levels slowly went down.  I was very late.  But I'd entered a very flat area, like the fens, with drainage ditches everywhere, so I could just buzz along for miles.

Arrive at Newport, with the wide, tidal river Usk.  I was gasping for a little something, so went into town along the Usk and found a riverside cafe.  Very pretty.  Again I didn't  go into the city centre.
River Usk at Newport

Transporter Bridge 

I was planning to cross the Usk on the very impressive Transporter Bridge, a sort of horizontal lift dangling from a very high up railway. But it seemed to be closed, so I found another bridge, with a wide cycleway, and that was all fine. I liked Newport.

Flat riding

More flat riding. I hadn't seen the sea, well, the Bristol Channel, for a long time, and was heading for it. Garmin said "Turn left onto footpath". Warning bells rang. My notes said "C-track for 4.5 miles along coast, ... looks OK" (meaning looks OK on the satellite view). It wasn't. After climbing up the levee, there was a tiny kissing gate, impassable for bikes, with a steep drop into the river if you went round it.
You Shall Not Pass
I'm not sure how this was labelled as a cycle track, but it wasn't for me. I took a route inland, and after a couple of tries eventually found a proper cycle route along the Severn. A few nice roads, and a bit of the hated A48, and I arrived at Chepstow about 7.30pm.
The newer Severn Crossing
Check into the hostel, rush to pub before last food orders, eat, return, shower, and relax. Ahhh.