Friday 25 May 2018

Mileages and maps



miles ascent
metres
mph Riding
time
Day 0: Home-Renfrew 21.6 117

Day 1: Renfrew-Ayr 99.0 972 11.1 8.9
Day 2: Ayr-Portpatrick 77.8 1114 11.3 6.9
Day 3: Portpatrick-Wigtown 92.4 1239 10.8 8.6
Day 4: Wigtown-Dalbeattie 81.8 1020 11 7.4
Day 5: Dalbeattie-Carlisle 78.8 732 11.2 7.0
Day 6: Carlisle-St.Bees 75.8 600 10.3 7.4
Day 7: St. Bees-Barrow 66.9 1016 9.8 6.8
Day 8: Barrow-Silverdale 74.2 782 10.3 7.2
Day 9: Silverdale-Preston 92.1 636 10.2 9.0
Day 10: Preston-Warrington 82.8 415 10 8.3
Day 11: Euston-home 12.4 32 12.4
Totals 855.6 8675
77.5
Averages (full days only) 82.2 853 10.67.8

Day 1: Renfrew-Ayr: 99 miles
Day 2: Ayr-Portpatrick: 77.8 miles
Day 3: Portpatrick-Wigtown: 92.4 miles
Day 4: Wigtown-Dalbeattie: 81.8 miles

Day 5: Dalbeattie-Carlisle: 78.8 miles

Day 6: Carlisle-St Bees: 75.8 miles

Day 7: St Bees - Barrow: 66.9 miles

Day 8: Barrow-Silverdale: 74.2 miles
Day 9: Silverdale-Preston: 92.1 miles
Day 10: Preston-Warrington: 82.8 miles

In conclusion

What a great week and a half!   The highlights for me were many:    Completing the Scottish coast was the big one I guess, but that was expected.   The Morecambe Bay coastal trail in all its glory was wonderful too.  And then there was revisiting St Bees and Ravenglass.  I confess to being a bit tearful at some of the golden memories of being there with two excited young boys as the train chuffed off.   Can you believe that camping was a highlight?  The freedom, the peace - watching the sunset from my tent.   And the early starts, with no-one about except the birds.  The weather was unexpectedly good too - dry throughout; cool mornings at the start of my time, and very sticky afternoons at the end.  And there things that make such an adventure memorable every year - nice people you meet, cafes, peculiar things and special places you discover.  I always enjoy the slight frisson of taking a calculated risk: not booking accommodation, or setting off down a dodgy track.   I would be less inclined to do this if I was with other people - but usually it works out one way or another.

Regrets:  I've had a few... I'm not sure I did justice to the first few days around Ayrshire and Dumfries & Galloway.   Was I too focused on "getting there" rather than "being there"?  I could have lingered in some of the towns a bit more, to get a feel for them.  Maybe it takes time to slow down to that pace of life.   The problems with the blog app were extremely annoying: having to split the photos and the text makes the blog less interesting, I think; and quite often I would have to spend an hour and a half or more typing and re-typing a blog post after it was mysteriously lost - time which I couldn't really spare.

This year I've definitely 'progressed' from the wilderness of the Highlands, to very heavily populated places, and to my surprise, quite liked them.  From Ullapool, where the journey home took four hours on a bus then an overnight train journey, to Warrington where you are whisked home in a little over two and a half hours.

I'm sorry if I went through your favourite place & didn't write about it glowingly.  One drawback of a coastal ride is that it's one dimensional - you pick a line through a place and don't always see the highlights.  I hope you enjoyed joining me on the journey.  Thank you for your comments, if you commented - it's encouraging to see them.   I've just got to do a bit of washing now, and then I'll post some mileage charts and some maps of where I went.   Au revoir, as they don't say in Liverpool!

Thursday 24 May 2018

Liverpool and beyond - pics (beyond)

Liverpool and beyond - pics (Liverpool)

Liverpool and beyond

I had 35 miles to do in eight hours.  The challenge would be to avoid too much time sitting around in bars. Or so I thought.
I set about some serious dawdling.  That's easy in Liverpool: there's so much to see.  Almost immediately after leaving Crosby, the sea front changes from prom to fenced-off docks.  The next several miles near the shore are a mess of docks and fast roads, so I escaped onto the Leeds & Mersey Canal, which neatly bypasses Bootle, bringing you out on Liverpool's dockside, which is now very spick and span, warehouses transformed into expensive apartments.
There is a lot to dawdle over, with a mix of heritage, grand buildings, shopping, and modern visitor attractions.  It's a nice place to be, and you could easily spend a day exploring, if you didn't have a bike to look after.
The dockside continues out of Liverpool to the south, on un-reconstructed cobbly paving, so dawdling is in fact essential to protect your sensitive bits.  I found myself, surprisingly, on the Trans-Pennine Cycleway to Bridlington.  Met up with another cyclist and we chatted for several miles, gradually increasing the pace until I was glad when he had to turn off.
I had sort of planned a late lunch in Garton. My notes said "plenty of pubs and cafés", which was true, but they were mostly boarded up, closed, or weren't the sort of place I'd dare to go in. After several hot circular miles, I found an Asda - not what I'd imagined, but it was Ok.
I hope there was a good reason for the big detour inland that my route then took.  It may have been avoiding Liverpool's John Lennon Airport, or the Halewood car factory, but it seemed a very long way round.  Eventually, back on the waterfront, joining the disused St. Helens Canal.  And - relax. 
Or not.  It was closed, just before a mega road junction, with no obvious diversion.  I was just about to take my life in my hands and join a junction of two major trunk roads, when I saw a cyclist coming the other way down a closed-off track.  So I went that way. It was better, but still bad. It led to the centre of Widnes, and a busy A road towards Warrington, my destination.  After several stressful but not dangerous miles, I found my way back to the canal, and REALLY relaxed for the last few miles to the station at Warrington.  It's only a bit over two hours to London from here: a mark of how far I've come since Glasgow, three hours further on the same line.
Tickets collected, four hours till the train, exhausted: there was nothing for it but a night on the town with the young things of Warrington.  But not too much to drink: I have to ride home when I arrive in Euston at 23:34.  Possibly in the rain.
With hindsight, I should have caught the train from Liverpool.  The next bit wasn't coast really, and it was a lot of hassle.  Lesson learned, perhaps.

** Post script **
The adventure wasn't quite over.  I lasted three hours in the pub with unlimited coffee/tea for company.   I can confirm it was unlimited, but not quite sure if it was tea or coffee.   
When you take a bike on a Virgin train, you put it in a compartment near the engine, which has to be specially unlocked by the guard.  It usually works well but this time, the guard came and unlocked for me to load my bike on, and while I was propping my bike up, he promptly locked the door, with my panniers still on the platform.    I sprinted down the carriage to the other door, pushing aside all the other passengers who were getting on and stowing large cases here and there, and managed to retrieve them.
From there onwards, it was straightforward.  Two and a half hours to Euston; flying through London's empty streets at midnight, aided by a following wind and a lot of green traffic lights.  Arriving at Twickenham, I went into a nearby phone box and changed out of my Coastal Adventurer costume, and turned back into plain old Simon.

Breakfast Deal - pics (Southport to Crosby)

Breakfast Deal - pics (Preston)

Breakfast Deal

I'd met another group of cyclists coming into Preston on the rather nice Preston Guild Wheel cycle route, and the offered directions to my hotel, which I politely declined, having the combined power of Garmin and Google Maps on my phone.  But it was getting dark (that's my excuse anyway) and I got a bit lost, ending up on the wrong side of railway lines and making a few extra hills to go over.  The landlady was very friendly: perhaps she took a shine to the smelly, exhausted cyclist in fromt of her.  But it's probably  just Lancastrian friendliness.

The kitchen was broken so there was no breakfast, just a help yourself cereal and toast offering, which suited me fine for an early start.

As I left, I cycled past Rob's family's old place.  Someone else lives there now, and it looks different from when I last visited around 1979.  The chap two doors down remembered them though.   I was quickly out into countryside, spinning along the lanes, and passing Rob's old school on the way.

I'd done twenty miles before I saw the sea: heading out along the Ribble estuary there are several miles of salt marsh between you and the estuary.  When I did see it, I could still see Blackpool across the river, the Tower and The Big One rollercoaster clearly visible.

Nine o'clock and I was in Southport, looking for food.  Southport is a bit like St Anne's, town well separated from the promenade and the sea by sand dunes.  There's a very long pier, which didn't reach the sea when I was there.

I had to go into town to find a café.  I quite liked it, with its wide, tree-lined main street.  Nice café - the Poundbakery, whose baps were averagely sized but their unique selling proposition is Tasty Baking at a Tasty Price.  A pound an item for a la carte breakfast, but I chose the Breakfast Deal, which works out at 5p an item, if you count each baked bean separately.

Cycling down a smooth esplanade in the sunshine, wind behind you, Breakfast Deal inside you - life is good.  After more sand dunes, you're approaching Formby on a track through scented pine woods.  Ahhh - it's like taking a Badedas bath.  Formby and environs is nice: new houses, pine woods and golf courses, all near the Merseyrail services if you need to go into the office.

It was another fifteen miles until I saw the sea again, at Crosby.  On the extensive sandy beach, loads of life-size  human figures, spaced out randomly and at different distances from the sea.  An Anthony Gormley art installation. Some were chest deep in water.  There were a few (real) people walking on the beach, making it more surreal.  And the real people would almost always interact with the figures they passed, often touching them.

In front of me was the Mersey, and I guess the Wirral across the water.  Liverpool was just round the corner.

Wednesday 23 May 2018

Blackpool - pics 3 (St Annes & Lytham)

Blackpool - pics 2

Blackpool - pics

Blackpool!

What can I say that you don't already know?  Well, getting there was a bit of an adventure.  As I reached the ferry pier at Knott End, I noticed that the tide was out - like everywhere round here, it goes out a long way.   The sign said it was running, but the very long pier sloped down into what seemed to be mudflats.  I went down at the scheduled time, and the ferry appeared, finding a small channel beside the pier.  I asked the ferryman what happens if the tide is too low?  "We can't run.  We had to stop the service for three hours earlier today.”  So I had a lucky escape.

Arriving at Fleetwood the first thing you notice is the smell of fish and chips.  It's a cheerful seaside town with a curiously named North Euston Hotel.  And a long prom, which leads to Blackpool, usually.
They are doing it up, putting in massive concrete sea defences, so it was closed for a couple of miles. The diversion involved a ladder stile - tricky with a bike - and a sandy bridleway around the golf course, which lies between the prom and the houses.

Blackpool tower came into sight.  An illumination, feeble in the bright sun.  The pier.  Another pier. People actually swimming in the sea.  It was a warm sunny day but I bet the sea was freezing.  A Wetherspoons, right next to the tower:"Albert and the Lion". The pleasure beach, which isn't a beach but a rollercoaster park.  Yet another pier.  Blackpool is big, noisy, fun, unapologetic.  The trams connect this vast seaside together and make it work, somehow.

I rode down the prom to the tram depot, and suddenly, I was dumped on the road.  "Welcome to St Annes" said the sign.  I think St Annes prides itself on not being Blackpool.  It's genteel, nice looking houses overlooking a beach which is made of mountainous sand dunes.  No prom - well, there is one in the very centre of town, with an old-fashioned pier and a few rides aimed at smaller children.  I liked it.  And I discovered that Lytham St Annes is actually two distinct places. St Annes gives way to get Lytham next down the coast.  They seemed similar in character to me - perhaps Lytham is a bit grander?

Leaving Lytham, I was under pressure to find somewhere for tea.  And somewhere to sleep.  More urgently, a toilet. All the public ones from Fleetwood onwards cost 20p.  What a rip-off.   McDonalds was the answer to two of my prayers, and their wi-fi solved the other one.  And I also booked my train ticket home tomorrow. £17.80, not bad.  Arrives Euston 23:30.

Tonight I'm in a cheap but fine hotel in Fulwood, a district of Preston where my friend Rob Steele grew up. It seems fitting since it was his bike I rode round most of the coast so far, and parts of it I used to build my "new" bike that I'm riding this year.

Into Lancashire - pics

Morecambe Bay - pics 2

Morecambe Bay - pics 3


Into Lancashire

I'd chosen the campsite in Silverdale because it was in a working farm. When I phoned the (lady) farmer apologised "Sorry about the noise. I'm just feeding me calves."
It was a big place, all lush grass, dry stone walls and oak trees, with views of the sun setting behind Grange-over-sands.

I was woken by two separate woodpeckers, and soon on my way through the lanes: a bit through woods, a bit by the sea, and the I was on the miles-long Morecambe Esplanade, overlooking a muddy beach which miraculously turned to sand as I reached the sunny main town and breakfast.

"The biggest breakfast baps in town" - I was not disappointed.  They also sold Bin Lids, baps about nine inches across, just in case you were a bit hungry.  The waitress, who was generously proportioned herself, was discussing her new exercise regime, designed to give her a beach body for Spain in ten weeks. The headline in the Daily Star shouted "Hot as El" for a 29° Spanish plume which is set to blast Britain.

And so, as Morecambe welcomed me into its ample bosom, I had completed the Morecambe Bay cycle route.  Highly recommended.

Something was bothering me. Postcards.  I hadn't seen any, and at each place I thought "Ah well, there'll be some at Largs / Ayr / Carlisle / Ravenglass / , well, maybe not Barrow, but Grange-over-Sands?"  But no. Either my seaside route doesn't pass the postcard shops or they are becoming unfashionable.  So, if you were lucky enough to get a PC from me in previous years, it's not looking good. And if you didn't, don't get your hopes up.

From there it was a skip along the prom to less than lovely Heysham, with two nuclear reactors you can see from Barrow. You can also catch a ferry to the Isle of Man. I did consider it, but it's the TT races this weekend and with everywhere booked up and roads closed it's not practical.

So it was on down the coast, or rather up the river Lune, northwards again, into Lancaster, all on cycle track and passing a British Cycling road racing track.  Crossed the river and back out on another cycle track, all very nice but the river is all I saw of Lancaster.   Down the river and on a disused railway line to Glasson which could have been named Port Glasgow or Port Carlisle, there were so msny similarities.  But this one was thriving, eith pleasure boats and several cafés and a pub.

After that it was heads-down, easy cycling on flat road very reminiscent of Lincolnshire.  There was even a dyke to keep the sea out.

I'm currently at the bustling town of Knott End, feeling very pleased with myself.  I resisted the urge to stop at the attractive looking tea shops, but couldn't say no to the Co-op, where I bought an inexpensive and nutritious meal, and sat on the grass opposite eating it.

Knott End is at the mouth of the river Wyre, andyou can get a ferry to Fleetwood, and then ride miles along the prom to Blackpool.  Which means ... Postcards.

Morecambe Bay - pics

Tuesday 22 May 2018

Morecambe Bay

There was a very warm welcome at the hotel.  The radiator was set to maximum.  I tried to cool the room down, but soon realised that I was the source of much of the heat.  Maybe a touch too much sun,  or perhaps I got too close to Sellafield?  It was like a Furness in there (sorry, couldn't resist).

I wasn't feeling too good - maybe I've been overdoing the distances each day.  Or it could just be the Barrow effect.

Next day I decided to take it easy, starting with the ride round Walney Island, without panniers.  It was lovely - quiet roads and views out to sea, or at least, views out to mudflats.  Legions of wind turbines working hard in the fresh breeze. Kids on their way to Walney school's motto: "Engineering Your Future".  Just like the coal mining schools in the north east, only more modern.  A town called Vickerstown, and roads called Westminster Avenue and Empire Way, reflecting the source of their livelihood.

I have to admit, I was relieved to leave.  Immediately I was on a waterside cycle track, NCN700, overlooking the shipyards.   A sliver of blue was spreading over the mudflats as I headed over the causeway to Roa Island, from where you can get the ferry to Piel Island, if you time it carefully.    The wind, which had unhelpfully been from the south yesterday, was now unhelpfully from the northeast.

For all of today I'm following the Morecambe Bay cycle track: 70 miles or so of promising cycling.  But with my new relaxed approach, I'm not expecting to complete it today.  I started by stopping for coffee in a sunny café on Roa Island.

The Morecambe Bay route is, so far, gorgeous.  It follows quiet seaside lanes and a bit of (also quiet) main road northwards to the town of Ulverston, where there's a bit along a canal into town.  My planned route from there followed my nemesis, the A590, but the cycle route avoided it, at a cost of some hills, starting with the worryingly named Alpine Road.  It was like cycling in the Lake District, if you know what I mean.  Great views.  Across the river Leven on a newish cycle bridge, and then through woods on a track, all very lovely.

Lunch was at Greenodd, where the expected cafés and pub were shut, but I got a very acceptable meal from the Post Office.  First Class.  From there, it's back roads and a couple of serious hills back to the coast at Grange. Over Sands, where a perfect view awaited me: a café sign.  The backdrop was also worth a mention - a panorama of Morecambe Bay spread out in the sunshine.   But returning to the café, it was like an oasis on the promenade, selling everything a hungry cyclist could possibly want.  Wonderful.

I continued along the very floral promenade, sandwiched between the sea and the railway, then around the lanes through woods and past limestone bluffs , luckily not having to climb them.
A few hundred yards in the A590 led to a short stretch on the less busy baby A6 !!

Then a nice B road, over a small bridge, and suddenly I was on the south side of the bay, wind behind me and looking back at the southern fells across the water.  I'm camping at Silverdale tonight, just into Lancashire.  What a great day.

Monday 21 May 2018

Beleaguered in Barrow - pic

Beleaguered in Barrow

A clifftop track took me the last two miles  into Barrow, with great views all around.  The wind was now strong and cold - Scottish wind.

Barrow's a big place - the biggest since Glasgow, and it has a city feel to it.  It's where they build the you-know-whats: say no more, but there is a huge shed alongside the waterfront.

I arrived and my first thought was tea, followed by where to stay.  The latter proved tricky.  There are no campsites for miles around so I planned to get a B&B, of which there were many.  When I looked in January.

Now, they were rarer and dearer. I found one on Booking.com, an app I haven't used before.  Booking went through ok and I got a confirmation email with a PIN number.  When I arrived at the address, there was a keypad lock on the front door. My PIN didn't work, and there was nobody answering the door. Or the phone number. Or the emergency phone number.  After leaving messages and getting very cold waiting, I retired to Morrisons café for a re-think.

In the end I gave up and booked somewhere else, the Majestic Hotel, with real people answering the phone.  Google doesn't make it easy to do things that way.

As a consequence, I didn't do the planned 15 mile tour of Walney Island.  Sorry about that.  Maybe I'll come back another time and do it. But probably not.

Actually, there is one attractive looking campsite, on Piel Island, but the ferry only runs between 11:30-5:30, and the pub stops serving food at 6pm.

From Barra to Barrow - pics

Lots of pics of mudflats or mountains in the hazy distance today - I've missed those ones out of this post.