South Devon

Brixton campsite

Many thousands of years ago, when CTC members were all young riders, there was a thing called rising sea levels.  Or sinking land.  Whatever.  Anyway, a lot of river valleys round here were flooded, leading to the very wide, branching tidal estuaries, called rias.  One of the things I remember from O level geography.   There are several of them all the way from Helford to Exeter; Fowey, Plymouth, Salcombe etc.   

My first task today was to explore the Yealm estuary,  a wooded and beautiful area of south Devon.  After a while I came to the beautiful riverside village of Newton Ferrers, on a fork in the river with lovely houses in terraces up the hillside.   People were heading for their boats on the river.  I was famished, but it was before 9am on a Sunday, and my expectations were low, but there was both a Co-op and a post office with a tiny cafe, both open.   

Car parking with a view

Newton Ferrers

During my relaxed Sunday breakfast, the peace was shattered by a group of loud young men, dressed variously as Superman or Superwoman, heading down the hill towards the pub.   The Post Office being the centre of village news, I soon learned that it was the Exeter Chiefs rugby team on a celebratory day out.  First stop (after a few drinks on the coach) was brunch in the pub.

Around the Yealm estuary 

14 miles, 500 metres of climbing, 1 pasty and 3 1/2 hrs later, I left the Yealm valley.  It was idyllic; roads around the banks of the various tributaries lined with pretty houses, and views across the water.  Highly recommended. 

There followed a stretch of riding along the tops of the hills, something that didn't really happen  in Cornwall.   It was gorgeous weather, warm, sunny and light winds.   There were a couple of steep drops to beaches, both it seems privately owned, or at least with private access.  Revelstoke was dominated by a caravan park, and Mothecombe, lovely sandy beach at the mouth of the river Erme, with an expensive car park and expensive cafe & restaurant.

Mothecombe beach

After wriggling round the river, I was presented with a track to another beach, 80 metres down & up, and nothing there at the end ofvit.   Not keen,  I asked a couple of  passers-by, and they noy only encouraged me but also checked over my bike and opined that I should be OK.  I left the panniers in the hedge at the top,  and found the beach, Ayrmer Cove, was beautiful,  with shining shards of slate like rock sticking up out of the sea.

Devon lanes

Ayrmer cove

It was teatime.  The next beach, Challaborough, was basically a caravan site with a beachside pub.  I didn't fancy it, so headed round to Bigbury-on-Sea, because, well, it was big.   I was wrong.  It was tiny, with no facilities except on Burgh Island, with the exclusive hotel, just across the tidal causeway.  It did have a campsite though, so I stopped there, pitched the tent with a fantastic view out to sea, and headed 2 miles up the road to the pub, via the main Bigbury, which was even smaller. 

Challaborough beach

Burgh Island

I'm still in the south Devon AONB, and all road signs point to Kingsbridge as the nearest large town.  Salcombe tomorrow, hopefully.

View from the campsite