The South coast, Day One

My journey to Penzance was traumatic.   The travel aspect was fine, an early morning ride into Paddingon and an uneventful train journey, five hours to Penzance.   The trauma arose from catching up with The Archers, where a significant upset unfolded.  I cannot say more, but Archers fans will understand.   The weather was cold, grey, windy and wet, so the views from the train were beautiful but rather muted.  As I neared Penzance, the rain eased off, and actually stopped as we got off the train.

Rainy views from the train

It was 13.00 and I wanted to get started,  so I left Penzance, along the only bit of flat land in Cornwall,  the Mount's Bay coast path to Marazion. Very blowy and spray being blown off the sea, but it was mild,  St Michael's Mount was emerging from the mist, so I was very happy to be there.  Then there was a series of up/down roads as I made my way around to the Lizard via several seaside places.  Every time I went up I was enveloped in low cloud on the hills,  so it was a bit damp.

View across Mount's Bay

St Michael's Mount 

There weren't many people about, just a few coast path hikers, but the café in Perranuthnoe was packed.  I didn't stop, carrying on to Prussia Cove, which was rubbish, just a car park at the top of the cliff.  I guess you have to walk down to the beach for the full effect.  Praa Sands, a wide expanse of sandy beach, looked beautiful with white sand against turquoise sea and white waves rolling in.  I was forced to have a tea break in Porthleven, a small town with a big harbour.   Still up and down to achieve each few miles of horizontal progress, but the sun had now come out and the views were fantastic.

Slog up from Praa Sands

Porthleven 

RNAS Culdrosw

Randon coastline

Random hedgerow 

I had visited these places in the 80s while walking the SW Coast Path: Gunwalloe, Poldhu Cove, Church cove; but all I remembered was the names, and the steep hills.  I stopped for the night at a farm campsite in Mullion.  I was greeted by about a dozen yapping Scottie dogs.  They also had alpacas and wallabies on the farm, but I didn't see any "normal " livestock.

 

Mullion Cove

A wealth of food options collapsed in front of my eyes:  the chip shop was closed on Monday, the "new" pub's kitchen was closed, and I was told in The Old Inn that they were far too busy to accept more food orders, despite being half empty.  I persuaded them to serve me a pasty, so all was OK.

Tomorrow,  the Lizard Point and onwards...