Simon's Coastal Adventure: the South Hams

Sometimes, the camping is enough. After being woken by noisy rooks yesterday, this morning I woke late, to the sound of skylarks all around. From my hilltop position, I had a perfect view of the sunset, and the morning sun was lighting the bay. The gentle breeze had almost dried my washing, and I lingered over packing up. I didn't really want to be anywhere else.

But I had places to visit. Down hill to the Tidal Road, along the river - the tide was out - and across the river Avon before descending a long hill into Bantham. They clearly have traffic problems with people who don't know how to use passing places, as there were a series of signs telling you what to do. A small post office advertised a cafe, and I thought "why not?", although I'd been less than six miles. It was a revelation. The terrace out the back of the post office commanded stunning views over the river Avon, the bay, Burgh Island, and the hill I"d just camped on.

Tidal road

Cafe with a view

Bantham boathouse

Bantham beach, looking back to Burgh Island

I was in the South Hams, south of Dartmoor, an area known for its punchy hills. Unfortunately the punch has disappeared from my legs during the last week, if it was ever there, just leaving jelly to power my climbs. A series of beaches each connected by a tough climb had me inching my way along the coast. Salcombe was just around the corner ... Hope Cove was I think no.4 of the morning, a beautiful village, two small sandy beaches hemmed in by small rocky cliffs, and a few shops and refreshment places.

South Milton Sands

Hope cove

My legs were still not really enjoying the challenge of the climbs between all these beaches, and it became a bit of an endurance test to make it round the headland to Salcombe. I even briefly considered giving up st Salcombe. But now I was definitely on the Salcombe side of the point and noticeably on the English Riviera, with golden sandy beaches, palm trees and turquoise waters. And no more huge hills between me and Salcombe.

Salcombe estuary

South Sands beach

Leaving Salcombe

Salcombe from East Portlemouth

I took time in Salcombe to consider my position, do some sightseeing, and eat a pasty. Plenty of people wandering around but not much to interest me. I decided to get the ferry across the estuary to East Portlemouth, and camp at the first campsite, which turned out to be Beesands. There were still some big hills, in fact the hills were higher, but somehow the roads seemed to follow the valleys more often. On the way I went to Start Point, and then to North Hallsands bay, part of a pair of bays formed when the town of Hallsands was washed away by the sea in 1917.