Thursday 18 May 2023

Tintagel

Bude 'Harbour'

Widemouth bay




Hilltop farm

From Bude, I decided I could make it to Tintagel, and booked a place in a hostel. Just a few miles and a lot of climbing to do. Along the coast was Widemouth Bay, and then I turned onto a minor road following the coast, probably the old road. A few 250m hills later, I stopped to refuel at Crackington Haven, 30% down and then 30% back up again.

Crackington Haven

Descent to Boscastle 

Having cracked that climb, there was some unusual riding along the tops for a few miles. I found I could go at more than 5mph, which was lovely.   


Boscastle 

Boscastle is famous for the flash flood in 2004 which caused extensive damage, washing away several houses. It's a small place with a path down to the harbour, where I stopped at a rebuilt cafe for tea, opposite the cliff-like hill standing between me and Tintagel.

After scaling the cliff, I descended into Tintagel and made a beeline for the hostel. Shower, washing etc and into the nearby pub for a basket meal at the suspiciously low price of £5. Mac'n'cheese in a basket?

Worth £5?  You decide.

Tintagel seems to be surviving on the tourist trade. There are two tourist attractions so far as I can see: the old Post Office (National Trust) and Tintagel Castle (English Heritage); supported by many pubs, cafes, and tourist shops trading on the connections with King Arthur, who is said to have been conceived at Tintagel Castle.

Old Post Office

The Castle is a medieval and modern-day engineering masterpiece, built variously between 500 and 1230 AD on a spectacular remote spit of land, which became an island sometime before 1700 when the land bridge collapsed. For many years, access was via a tricky vertiginous set of steps down the cliff face and back up the other side, only suitable for the brave. I was too scared to go more than a few steps down it. In 2019 a new bridge was constructed, goodness knows how, restoring access for the majority. The Castle was shut when I got there but the location is well worth a visit in itself.

6th century and 13th century buildings

Old and new crossings

King Arthur's cave, right

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