Monday 21 July 2014

To Scourie

It was 2.30pm and I was three miles from my start point.  I headed south up a wide glacial plain, a high mountain ridge to my left becoming bigger and steeper as I rose to the pass at the head of the valley.  After that, the landscape changed completely,  to lumps and rocks everywhere: a big roller coaster.  The scenery was gorgeous, homely, green, alpine.  A few houses nestled on the bright green slopes, with a loch (one of many) below.  Against my better judgement I started singing The Lonely Goatherd...

Another detour to Kinlochbervie offered several hilly miles of unfolding alpine views.  At the end, a 35mph dive to the town ended in disappointment.   There was no tea room, just an industrial fishing port.  I wandered down to the beach but there was nothing there but a dozen jellyfish lurking in the shallows.  It was worth it for the scenery but could have been so much better.

Further on, a six mile circular trip to Tarbert on the coast.  Six miles with nine chevrons on the OS map.  Going there was flattish, single track road beside a loch or two, then a one in four descent to Tarbert, which had everything that Kinlochbervie didn't.   A few houses, a wonderful view over the sea to the nearby island of Handa, a setting in a crucible of high rocky hills, and an up market restaurant and tea room. 

You should go there. Book a trip to the island and see the dolphins playing in the sea channel. Book an evening meal in the restaurant and watch the sun set over the sea.  And if you're feeling brave, cycle back out via the northern road.  It's even steeper than the way in.  It winds past a staircase of lochs (see what I did there? )  connected by little rocky streams and waterfalls.   Views through the rocky outcrops to still more lochs, the sea, and the looming mountains behind.  It was well worth the ride.  Much better than Richmond Park as a training circuit.

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