Friday 12 June 2015

Gairloch to Applecross, part one

Flaming June has not arrived up here.  There are still banks of bluebells and primroses everywhere, and it's cold! Temperatures of 10-13 degrees are forecast for today, but less wind.  In the YH there were a couple of fly collectors poring over microscopes, sorting what they had caught in various places and mounting the more interesting ones.  Clearly a labour of love.  Today they were off to Skye in search of a possible new species which had been spotted there.

Leaving town the road followed a river valley, normally a good omen, but I shortly passed a hydro-electric power station: not so promising.   The road wound up past rocky cliffs to a glassy loch at the top.  Then fairly easy cycling past more lochs, surrounded by mountains, to Kinlochewe, which felt like a frontier village at a junction. After a quick coffee I set off up another river valley, the right sort this time: a single track road with passing places, gently up for five miles, then gently down between glowering hills.

Into Torridon, head of the loch of the same name, and the object of yesterday's disappointments. There was an appealing general store and café.  I wasn't going to stop but it had lovely flapjack, so I had to.  I forgave Torridon.

I had booked a bed in Applecross so things were looking up.  A hilly ride along the loch bought me to Sheldaig, a real find: tiny fishing village by the sea (aren't they all?) with stunning views over the loch to the mountains on the other side.  And a hotel bar serving food.  The sun even came out a bit.

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