Round the horn(s)

It was sunny again as I left Tayvallich, after a meagre self-made breakfast: porridge and toast.  My plan was to ride round the next two 'fingers' of the coastline, and get the ferry to Islay from Kennacraig.  The roads didn't entirely support my route, so there were a few miles of forest track at the top of Loch Sween to get to the next peninsula. 

The roads were deserted, as they don't really lead anywhere.  Kilmory, at the tip of the second finger, has an ancient chapel, preserved by Historic Scotland and containing very impressive stone grave 'lids' with Celtic carvings, and a decorated cross.

Then, a gamble: a private track led me several miles across to the other side of the peninsula, where it joined the road again. Luckily it was okay although it had some scarily steep downhills.  And it was hot! Short sleeves weather.
The route continued its zigzag progress, up 10 miles, across a bit, down 10 miles, across a bit, and so on.  Fabulous views across an azure sea to the paps of Jura. At the bottom of the third finger is the village of Kilmartin which has an inn.  Unfortunately it was shut at 12:20 today.  Bit of a crisis. I had to finish off the emergency flapjack.   Then it was mainly downhill and downwind, through delightful woods, bluebells everywhere (although I've gone off them a bit).

After 50 refreshment-free miles, I reached the main road from Lochgilphead, (at the head of loch Gilp, did I mention?) to Campbeltown, way down on the Mull of Kintyre.  For the first time since leaving Oban, there was modest traffic.  And a hotel.  Four miles left to go, and two hours to fill, which I nearly did to excess: I was so relaxed that I forgot you need to be there 30 minutes before the ferry leaves.

The next stage is complicated, so I'll put that in a separate post.