Llandudno

Rhôs-on-Sea was a proper seaside place, picturesque and classy.  The horrid road and railway have been banished elsewhere.  It seems to be conjoined with Penrhyn Bay, built into the curve of a rocky promontory.  After maybe 80miles on the flat, there was a shocking hill to get over the promontory, followed by the revelation of Llandudno.

Llandudno has it all.  A stunning situation on an isthmus means it faces the sea to north and south west.  Beautiful sandy beach, wide prom., gracious Edwardian terraces facing the sea, a pier, a ski slope, a funicular railway, a cable car (to the top of Great Orme Hill (on the end of the isthmus).  Another Marine Drive, even more spectacular, and hillier, than the Douglas one, round the hill, a great cycle ride, with the Rest and Be Thankful Café at its highest point.  Llandudno clearly had oodles of money spent on it in Victorian & Edwardian times, and its easy to see why it has retained its popularity.  It's a big place: all the big shops are here, in a beautiful high street.  One is tempted to stay, as I bet Queen Victoria said.

I Rested, was Thankful, and drank Café latte. Hooray for Llandudno.  I reckon it's the best seaside town I've visited so far on my travels.

Leaving Llandudno, a marked cycle track across the sand dunes proved to be just sand, so I went by road up the Conwy estuary, only a few miles to the bridge to Conwy and its majestic castle dominating the bridge and town.  Conwy, a walled town, shows off its history very well.  There is lots to see  and it's a bit of a tourist magnet, complementing Llandudno.

After leaving Conwy on a beautiful riverside track, I had another tangle with the Expressway.  It goes round, well  through, a rocky headland in twin tunnels.  

They have clearly spent hundreds of thousands keeping the NCN5 cycle route separate, leading to extensive ramps, bridges back and forth, and a separate track carved into the side if the hill, which has been extensively modified for the roads. There was a lot of up and down but it worked OK.

Then back on lanes to Llanfairfechan, a nice seaside village, beach side cafe with a ukulele band playing outside, all dressed in 70s gear.  They were good, but I sat inside.

I was struggling today. Maybe I hadn't eaten enough? (Only one breakfast?).  Maybe a headwind?  Anyway I reached Bangor, missed the town centre and got to the Menai bridge, where I collapsed into a pub for tea.

Llanfairfechan

If only I'd realised, the village of Menai, just over the bridge, is a lovely place - lots going in on a Saturday teatime, but I had to be at a campsite by seven.  Stopped for a lovely evening meal in The Liverpool Arms, Beaumaris. Highly recommended.

Beaumaris