Friday 19 July 2013

Fog on the Tyne

My landlady had an interest in local history.   She told how Hartlepool got wealthy through shipbuilding and coal-related industry.   Now all this is gone, replaced by third-generation unemployed.    As I left I passed the next generation of neatly dressed schoolchildren on their way to school.  I wonder what their aspirations are.  Round the headland on the coast path into a fresh North wind.  White horses on the silver sea.

After passing into Durham - 'Land of Bishop Princes' (and hills, they forgot to mention), I turned off and went down to Easington Colliery, overlooking the sea and where the mines used to run out several miles under the sea.  I was disappointed not to see the  now-closed colliery, which was signposted on a footpath out of town, but what was left were long rows of terraced miners' houses.  Up the hill a windowless school with separate Boys and Girls entrances, and a separate building for Manual Instruction, presumably related to mining. Soon after, the coal port of Seaham was in better health, its harbour now less-used.

Today's song appeared before  breakfast: Lindisfarne's Fog on the Tyne, but I hadn't realized how apposite it was.
'Sitting in a sleazy snack bar / sucking sickly sausage rolls / slipping down slowly / slipping down slightly(?) / think I'll sign on the dole / cos the fog on the Tyne is all mine, all mine ...'
The weather forecast had warned of sea frets, or mist, and as I left Seaham heading for the Tyne,  the  light fog descended.  Imagine my excitement.

A nice coastal route to Sunderland and quickly across the river by bridge, avoiding the ferry.  I'm glad I did as the route back out was a great scenic track along the river.
Climbing up the hill away from the river, I was accompanied by the foghorn of a passing ship booming as it steamed south.  I reflected that the Tyne seemed rather puny for a great shipbuilding river.  Then I saw a sign announcing South Tyneside and realised that it was some other river - the Wear?
Easy cycling into South Shields with expanses of golden sand that made me want to stop and enjoy the scene, but I pressed on for the ferry where I met a lovely chatty lady and learned about the Duke of Northumberland who lives in the castle at Alnwick, my next stop.
Then around the coast by Tynemouth, another sunny and attractive town, to Whitley Bay for lunch.  Crossing the Tyne (twice!) was much nicer than I expected.

Lunch was a satisfying chilli care of Mr. Wetherspoon.  I avoided the local beer, Whitley Wobbler: at 5% the wobbles might be excessive, instead going for Jennings Cumberland Aummer Ale at £2.15 a pint.

P.S.
Thank you for all your comments and emails. .. I'm greatly encouraged that someone's reading my meanderings.

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