Wednesday 20 July 2016

Mull

As I waited for the ferry, I watched a flying display by some terns, diving into the sea to catch sand eels for their chicks, waiting on a nearby rock.  There were also loads of jellyfish lurking round the jetty.  And from the ferry, I spotted a dolphin, or maybe a porpoise, nearby.
Supper was some excellent fish and chips at Tobermory, in a pub attached to the distillery.
One of the reasons why Tobermory is so picturesque is that it's surrounded by a bit of a cliff on all sides. The only way out is up.  Dervaig village hall bunkhouse was my destination: village/community halls are a big thing round the less populated parts of Scotland, and they often have cafes attached, but this is the first bunkhouse I remember seeing.  First, a little detour to see Glengorm castle, a nice looking place but not very welcoming to the likes of me.  My phone battery was flat by now, so no photos I'm afraid.
As I left there was a tremendous yowling noise,  coming from a mink on the grass verge.  He wasn't at all scared, in faxt when I stopped he came towards me, at which point I remembered rhat minks have sharp teeth, and left.  More hills, and I arrived at Dervaig around 10pm.  Showered, did washing, tried to chat to a couple of workmen from Glasgow, but couldn't understand much of what they said.  Heard some thunder: fell asleep.

The landscape of Mull seems gentler, more on a human scale than Skye.  It's beautiful rather than hard-core.  And that goes for the roads too.  Today I'm heading for Iona, at the far west.  Unlike Skye, the roads follow right round the coast, so after 20 miles I was about 5 miles from where I started.  Lovely varied roads though: through woods, high up along the coast with big cliffs above you, or dead flat around sandy beaches.  Once or twice, over high moorland, dead quiet in the mist.
It started to rain a bit. But this wasn't your Skye rain.  This was gentle drops of Atlantic rain, served an a warm breeze.  M&S rain.  I had to put away my underpants, which I was airing after a well-meaning chap at the hostel had offered to tumble dry them with his stuff. He didn't tell me that he had about 2 tons of wet washing, so none of it dried.
You know when you're miles from anywhere, and you come across an unexpected tea shop? Well, that didn't happen today.  43 miles without a stop. 43, to the first place, Pennyghael stores, post office and cafe, overlooking the misty loch.  Very nice too.

1 comment:

  1. Wot no tea shop!!! Still, the wildlife sounds interesting. Not sure I would recognise a mink, let alone know anything about it's sharp teeth.X

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